The smaller the car, the firmer the suspension. But there are exceptions. Some smaller American and Asian four-door sedans are designed and built for an older, more conservative buyer. These vehicles have a softer ride. And the suspension on some larger vehicles is calibrated toward the sporting end of the spectrum. Bottom line: If the ride quality isn’t what you want, look elsewhere. Otherwise, you’re looking at upgrading the suspension with all new shocks and/or struts, different stabilizer bars, etc.

Listen for any groaning or thumping noises from the front end that get louder or quieter when going around turns or over pavement irregularities. The struts or shock fasteners could be loose or the bushings could be worn out. Take some tight turns, some sharp curves. The car should feel stable and secure going around corners, without hiking up excessively on the inside wheels. If a car has excessive body roll in corners, the stabilizer bar bushings or the shock absorbers may be worn. Make a note of anything that sounds unusual or feels strange.

On FWD cars, clicking, clunking, rattling or ticking noises up front indicate worn CV joints. Usually, these noises are much more noticeable in a slow, sharp corner than they are any other time. Make a note of any noises of this type for your mechanic. CV joint repairs can be expensive, as much as a transmission overhaul or more to fix all four CV joints at the same time (although the outer joints are much more likely to be damaged than the inner ones).

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